Even on relatively quiet days during the 14-month Lebanon civil war, nothing was quite as eerie−and as frightening−as the ride from one side of divided Beirut to the other, through a half mile of no man's land along the broad Corniche Mazraa that was no one's preserve but the snipers'. Dozens of people were killed and kidnaped during transit to a crossing point cynics called "Mandelbaum Gate"*: only intrepid souls risked it during periods of fighting when the final stretch had to be negotiated at nothing less than 70 m.p.h. Last week two...
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