The juicy, well-marbled rib roast on the cover of the Atlantic Monthly's March issue looks tasty enough, but the magazine did not appeal to executives at Safeway Stores, Inc., the nation's largest supermarket chain (1975 sales: $9.7 billion). After a memo alerting stores to the issue went out from the chain's Oakland, Calif, headquarters last month, some Safeway stores removed the magazine from their newsstand shelves.
What bothered the company about the issue was an unflattering account of food industry merchandising and meat-labeling practices. The 5,000-word article, titled "RipOff at the Supermarket" and...