Pro football's recent emphasis on conservative tactics has reduced both point scores and thrills. Legislation lifting local TV blackouts also makes the Sunday trek to the stadium less compelling. No such paltry consideration—not even the October climax of big-league baseball—distracts a very special species of spectator. He is the tailgater, a participant in an event that is part block party, part fraternity beer bust, part Shriners' parade and all Middle-American ritual.
Tailgating started years ago at Ivy League games, where alumni would serve genteel picnics from the backs of their station wagons. Cold...