Modern Living: Grape Expectations

They may lack the grandeur of a Romanee-Conti '59 at $200 a bottle or the finesse of a Chateau Lafite Rothschild '61 (a mere $135). Yet the new California wines now arriving on the market are the best available in quantity. "For the first time in this or any other country," says a California wine-industry consultant, Louis R. Gomberg, "there is going to be a tremendous abundance of high-quality grapes. The consumer will harvest a wine-crop bounty the like of which has never before been seen."

The bottled bounty comes in the form of...

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