Modern Living: The Eiffel Rival

France's King Henri III first dropped in for dinner on March 4, 1582, and became a regular patron of the Parisian hostelry. Since Harry's day, its habitues have ranged from musketeers to movie stars, presidents to prelates. Withal, La Tour d'Argent has remained one of the brightest, most tenacious stars in world gastronomy.* Kingdoms and republics have passed, boulevards and bridges have been renamed, heroes have risen and fallen—and been denied tables —but La Tour d'Argent has remained as immutable as its name, a tower of salivary silver. To this day, for any gourmet it towers high above Eiffel's.

In Ma Tour...

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