When the raft Acali (Aztec for house in the water) sets out across the Atlantic this month, it will be captained by Maria Bjornstram, 30, a lithe Swedish blonde. Six other key-command posts will also be held by women; all of the secondary positions will be filled by men. This strange odyssey, scheduled to begin in Las Palmas in the Canary Islands and wind up in Yucatan, Mexico, has all of the earmarks of a frivolous publicity stunt. In fact, it is a serious experiment in role reversal and cultural conflict conceived by Santiago Genoves, a Mexican anthropologist who went...
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