Cover Story: LOW-INCOME GROWING El Monte, Calif.

TIME Los Angeles Bureau Chief Don Neff has worked in Southern California off and on since 1956. He made his way out the San Bernardino Freeway for this report:

EVEN its defenders admit that El Monte is an eyesore, a blur of suburban sprawl 14 miles from downtown Los Angeles. Its boundaries meander without obvious aim or purpose. Tiny houses, usually stucco and rarely worth more than $30,000, are jumbled together with tacky businesses along its dismal streets. Some 70,000 people call it home, but only a city father could love it. "This is...

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