Modern Living: The Kosher of the Counterculture

TELL me what you eat, and I will tell you what you are," said Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, the 18th century French gastronome. His aphorism is especially true today. The U.S., long the melting pot of a dozen national cuisines, shows signs of becoming stratified along culinary as well as philosophical and political lines. The blacks are proudly eating soul foods, the hardhats feast on as much red meat as they can afford, and the white-collar liberals seem to be keeping down their cholesterol with chicken and veal. The youth of Woodstock Nation? With...

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