EXCEPT for the unmistakably modern odor of tear gas and burning rubber, the southern Italian city of Reggio di Calabria could have passed for one of the fortified city-states that made up Italy before the nation was unified 100 years ago. For most of the week, towering barricades of tree trunks, paving stones and junk sealed the city off from the outside world while nearly 5,000 armed police and carabinieri laid siege to it. At one point, two columns of cops in full riot regalia, spearheaded by bulldozers and a construction crane, charged into...
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