AMERICAN NOTES: Chinoiserie

One of the more visible repercussions of Richard Nixon's China trip has been a sudden American appetite for things Chinese. In New York City's Chinatown, according to one food wholesaler's estimate, restaurant business has increased 25% since the President went to Peking. Part of the rise may have been due to the recent Chinese New Year, but the televised spectacle of the Nixons sitting down to eight-course Mandarin dinners obviously set many salivary glands to work.

Across the nation, there was a great fumbling and clicking of chopsticks—an item that restaurants often ran out of, as Americans accustomed to forks...

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