West Germany: Bei Ria

XXX O Haus Maternus. Poststr. 3. P 0 28 51. . . Y X

That one-star, one-line rating for the Weinhaus Maternus in the Michelin German guidebook is somewhat coy, albeit accurate as far as it goes. The service, as Michelin indicates, is indeed gemütlich and the food good. Eating there is also reasonable: a dinner for two can be had for $12. What the guidebook fails to mention is that Maternus, located in the Bonn suburb of Bad Godesberg* is undoubtedly the most important restaurant in West Germany. Its primary bill of fare...

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