Resorts: Aristocrats of the Continent

Most have grudgingly added air conditioning, but that is about the only serious concession to modernity made by the great old resort hotels of the Continent. Tourists who need cellophane-wrapped water glasses may take their business elsewhere.

Stays are shorter and guest lists less gilded nowadays, but there are still enough old-rich, old-faithful families who return year after year to keep Europe's deluxe palaces filled nearly to capacity. For $30 and up for a double room, they get majestic grounds and baronial interiors that evoke the glories of la belle epoque, as well...

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