Restaurants: Vive les Surgel

Many a man groans and bears it when he comes home to find a TV dinner in the oven. Not Pierre Franey. The first time he found frozen dinners in his house at Valley Stream, N.Y., recalls Franey, "I was furious." His gall was on account of Gallic upbringing. Born 46 years ago in Burgundy, Franey began an apprenticeship as a kitchen boy at 14, learned to cook at Paris' Drouant restaurant (two Michelin stars), reached his culinary peak as chef of New York's Pavilion (which would undoubtedly rate three stars if...

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