Food: Dining with Toulouse-Lautrec

The whole Paris world knew that Toulouse-Lautrec delighted in dressing up en travestie, that he haunted the dance halls and was on a first-name basis with the denizens of the bordellos.

What only his friends knew was that he judged his contemporaries as much by their taste buds as their art appreciation. He delighted in toiling in the kitchen, and the gourmet dishes that he concocted are now a matter of record: 197 of his recipes, jotted down at the time by his closest friend and dealer, Maurice Joyant, have been published in...