The Amazon, long a forgotten and forlorn land of jungle and despair, has always been part legend, part fact. It is not a region inhabited mostly by wild animals, naked Indians and white adventurers who swill straight gin under a slow-turning ceiling fan. Along the meandering, 3,300-mile Amazon River, in fact, disappointed visitors travel for miles or days without spotting so much as a monkey or parrot, let alone a jaguar, boa constrictor or alligator. What is easy to spot on every side, however, is the progress that is washing over the Amazon like a...
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