If a New Yorker mentions the name Wagner to a bartender, all he is likely to get is a growl. But if a citizen of the French city of Dijon mentions the name of his mayor to a waiter in a bistro, he gets an aperitif made of three-fourths dry white wine, one-fourth Crème de Cassis. The kir is Dijon's tribute to the Rev. Félix Kir, the improbable Roman Catholic priest who is mayor of this city of 142,000.
Jaunty old Canon Kir is a Gallic equivalent of the late Fiorello La Guardiaa Napoleon-sized (5 ft. 3 in.) "autocrat" with...
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