Travel: The Outer Islands Are In

Hawaii once meant Waikiki—a fabled bit of beach washed by the blue Pacific, where laughing girls wreathed visitors with orchid leis and every day afforded another sun-drenched romp through a paradise of surf and sand, every night (under a perfect moon) another tropical taste of the revelry of luau. But in only ten years, Waikiki has been transformed into some thing that seems to belong more to southern Florida than it does to the once magical islands of Hawaii. Soft-drink and souvenir stands clutter the beach front, the famed beach itself is...

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