Food & Drink: Mash Notes

FOOD & DRINK

1961 will be one of the greatest wine years of the century. That was the word from Marcel Lugan, director of France's National Confederation of Wine and Wine Spirits of Appellations of Origin. In a transport of sedimentality, Lugan rhapsodized to newsmen that "the wines of 1960 are like Zizi Jeanmaire—nervous and muscled, but not full-bodied and rounded. The wines of '61 will be like Mae West—a Rubens woman to whom one can add nothing; a Bardot wine, if you like—round and appealingly plump." Or, to put it less plumply, "1961 is a black...