ON Aug. 9 in the year 1384, a farmer came upon a Holy Host while plowing in his field in the Bavarian town of Creglingen. On that spot, the Lords of Hohenlohe-Brauneck decided to build a chapel, and it is said that so many pilgrims flocked to see the Host that the town was eventually able to afford the finest altarpiece money could buy. Then came the Reformation, and the pilgrimages ceased. For centuries the great carving was all but forgotten; only a trickle of travelers took the trouble to visit it until after World War II. Last week...

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