Music: Honorable Rockettes

As the electric train slides into the station 30 miles northwest of Osaka, the pretty conductress announces the last stop in a falsetto singsong: "Finally, honorable passengers, your patience is rewarded.

At last we have reached Takarazuka, a unique town dedicated to laughter, spectacle and melody." For 30 yen (8¢) the travelers can stare at the town's zoo, flock through its botanical gardens, jitterbug on its spring-mounted dance floor, or get married in its Shinto chapel. But the main event is the big show in the rambling, 4,000-seat theater—a rare, sukiyaki-like mixture of...

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