THE phenomenal growth of the world's museums means that any footloose traveler can now see ten times the masterpieces his great-grandfather had access to, even if that great-grandfather happened to be a duke. Guides to the major museums are easily come by, and visitors to Paris are not likely to miss the Louvre. But Europe also has great treasures still in private or semiprivate collections, secluded abbeys, obscure churches and castles that well repay the discriminating wanderer. TIME herewith begins a new color series of such Hidden Masterpieces.

Hans Holbein's first portrait of Henry VIII was a miniature, done in 1537 to...

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