TRAVEL: Home Away from Home

An American tourist who landed in Paris last week while it was overrun by visitors to the International Auto Show plaintively wrote her daughter in the U.S.: "We spend all our time at the American Express office. Here we can sit down and talk quietly. And it's the only place in town with a clean rest room."

For half a century, Americans in Paris —sophisticates and innocents alike—have felt the same way about the American Express office. To them, the grimy faced, flatiron-shaped building at 11 Rue Scribe, across the street from the...

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