FRANCE: Heroic Stomach

"The art of eating," says the ample Frenchman who is known to all Gallic gourmets as Prince Curnonsky, "has nothing to do with the need for nourishment." The propagation of this great truth has brought the 220-lb. prince not only his title and his brave paunch but an endless succession of free meals. His only regret is that he realized it so late. Born plain Maurice-Edmond Sailland, he ate well, as most people do in his native Loire valley, up to the age of 15, but only for the sake of sustenance. Then...

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