AFRICA: Sunrise on the Gold Coast

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The only way to learn to play the harp is to play the harp.

—Aristotle

Through the streets of Accra, capital of the Gold Coast, Democracy ran joyously wild.

The women in the parade were slim and graceful, furled like striped umbrellas into acres of cotton cloth—some green, some plum, some crimson, and all decorated with patterns of elephants, tropical fish, signs of the zodiac and portraits of the late King George VI. The men, short, square and knobbly at the knees, wore Palm Beach shirts, open at the neck and hanging,...

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