FOOD: Butch Goes West

The sun poured down on the wheat fields of Red River Valley and on the crowd gathered around a dusty truck. A sunburned farmer squinted appraisingly at a little man standing and shouting on the truck's tailpiece. "He wouldn't be no account on a thrashin' gang," the farmer said. "But I reckon he's smart. And he talks plain."

The plain-shoutin' little man was Fiorello LaGuardia, ex-mayor of New York, now head of UNRRA, who had swooped into North Dakota, wearing a pearl-grey sombrero. Secretary of Agriculture Clint Anderson, wearing a tie painted...

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