BRAZIL: Wings across the Amazon

Every Friday in Lent a mule without a head, mula sem cabeça, flies around Brazilian back-country towns, terrifying the peasants. With every movement of the trees, with every blowing paper, people stand still, sure they have seen the mula. At night they hear it bray and gallop over the roofs. Until recently, the phantom mule was the only extraterrestrial thrill most Brazilians ever had.

But air transportation is changing all that. Last week a Panair do Brasil plane glided into a new airfield in the town of Governador Valladares, in inland Minas Gerais state. Aboard were the atabrine, antiseptics and...

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