MEXICO: A Nod from Rodolfo

Precisely at 4, the band in the Plaza Mexico broke into the traditional Andalusian Skies, and the winter bullfighting season was on. In his box halfway up the ring's shady side, an erect, piercing-eyed old man in a broad-brimmed black hat glared about him. The wind was too strong for good bullfighting, he groused; the sun too bright. In their brilliantly colored capotes de paseo (parade capes), the toreros marched into the ring. "No elegance!" the old man harrumphed.

Despite his grumbling, Maestro Rodolfo Gaona, 62, was having a good time. To meet...

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