COLOMBIA: La Capitana

The voice thundered, amplified by a bullhorn: "Who wants electricity connected?" Crews scrambled to string up power lines. "Who does not have the telephone he applied for?" Another utility crew rushed to work. Behind the bellowing bullhorn stood a round-faced, chunky woman who is known to Colombia's poor as "La Capitana del Pueblo"—the captain of the people. Once, when pleas for water had gone unheeded, La Capitana and a work crew manned picks and shovels to unearth a water main and hooked up public taps —without city help or approval.

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