Canadian by birth, Irish by temperament, Correspondent James Wilde, who has covered wars for TIME from Asia to Nigeria, visited Ulster recently. His report:
A BIG burly man called "Beer Belly" stood on the wooden stage. He glowered through the smoke-filled hall that was once a Catholic church and is now a shebeen (illegal drinking club) in the middle of Belfast's Falls Road Catholic ghetto. It was Sunday and the wooden trestle tables groaned under the weight of Guinness bottles, but no police or military would dare enforce the law that closes pubs on...
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