Religion: Rumania's Open Churches

Every nation in Europe glories in its monuments to faith and civilization. For centuries now, pilgrims and art lovers have lingered in reverence before the dazzling domed temples of Byzantine Ravenna, the Gothic splendors of Canterbury and Chartres, the sinuous harmonies of the Baroque churches of Saragossa, Vienna and Prague. But few tourists have yet made their way to Moldavia, a distant province of northern Rumania, where some of the loveliest churches in Europe are clustered (see color pages). The churches of Moldavia are exceptional not only for their beauty but for how...

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