Zooming about the island in rented red M.G.s and Sprites, correspondents covering the Cyprus fighting see something hidden from most war correspondents: both sides. Even the press corps headquarters—the comfortable Ledra Palace Hotel—is located directly on the often violated Green Line dividing Greek and Turkish factions. Pasting press stickers on their car windshields, the correspondents dash in and out of the fighting zones, crossing no man's land where armed U.N. troops dare not tread. Both Turkish and Greek Cypriots welcome the press because they want to get their views before world opinion. Still, crossing the lines is tricky. "The...
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