Food & Drink: Remembered Joy

FOOD & DRINK

More than 6,000,000 Americans are eating better today because one hired girl, almost 65 years ago, could not cook.

The hired girl could manage fairly well on plain things, but for one young St. Louis bride that was not enough. Irma Rombauer had sampled some of the pleasures of European cooking when her father served for several years as American consul in Bremen. In those turn-of-the-century days, directions for more exotic dishes were almost always in French, and began: "Make a white sauce, stir until ready." Or: "Simmer your leftover grouse for 36 hours and season to taste...

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