Restaurants: Forever Toots's

Bernard Shor is a beefy saloonkeeper who looks like an elderly, slightly worn cherub. He insults his best friends ("Ya crumb-bum!") and coldly rejects sycophants ("How should I remember ya when I only seen ya oncet?"). Everybody calls him Toots, a name that has stuck since childhood when he was—incredible as it may seem—a pretty boy. His pals are sportsmen, athletes, politicians, showfolk, journalists and has-beens; in short, Toots Shor is a Runyonesque character too true to be fictional.

For 19 years, he ran one of the most popular restaurants in Manhattan....

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