Scandinavia: And a Nurse to Tuck You In

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Like Norsemen of old toasting Balder, the god of light, Scandinavians celebrate summer with feasting and fireworks, music festivals and folk dancing until dawn. At lunch hour, heliotropic beauties stand on every sidewalk with closed eyes and hiked skirts, "mooning at the sun," as the Swedes say. Restaurant tables are laden with summer delicacies: crayfish, trout in sour cream, fresh eels, wild strawberries. In the milky gloaming that passes for night, Copenhagen cabarets work double shifts, and the nightlong sounds of revelry prompt a tourist official's tip: "Have fun in...

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