Modern Living: Polynesia at Dinnertime

The restaurant's liquor list reads like a South Sea adventure. After an encounter with a White Witch (pure white Jamaica rum) or a Rangoon Ruby (vodka and cranberry juice), the drinker may well feel such a Suffering Bastard (rums, lime and liqueurs) that he will want to see Dr. Funk of Tahiti ("redolent of French rums and absinthe"). Actually, the author of these "Polynesian" cocktails has never roamed the South Seas. Nevertheless, salty, peg-legged Victor Bergeron, 58, has parlayed a flair for serving good food amid a supply of grass skirts, Tiki gods and outrigger canoes into the most...

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