MODERN LIVING: Le Restaurant, C'est Moi

Gourmets and plain expense-account diners in Manhattan last week were confronted with a tragedy as grave as the separation of sauce hollandaise—an eruption of Gallic temperament that temporarily closed Le Pavilion, considered by many the best French restaurant in the U.S. and by all check signers, among the most expensive (consommé: $2). In a fit of pique, Pierre Franey quit as Le Pavilion's head chef after Owner Henri Soulé demanded that he cut five hours of overtime off the work week of the kitchen staff in order to slash the operating expenses of the restaurant. An artist of...

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