Grambling, La., is a sleepy Negro town in the heart of the peapatch and catfish country. The best way to get there is by car from Shreveport, over a highway that is partly pitted blacktop, built by Huey Long in the 1930s. But there is not much point in making the trip—unless, of course, you happen to be an athlete. Grambling is the home of Grambling College, a state-operated school with only 3,700 students, half of them girls, and year after year some of the best college football players in the nation. At last...
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