South Korea: A Place of 10 Million Words

Winding past Pork Chop Hill, Heartbreak Ridge, Old Baldy and other blood-drenched ground, the Military Demarcation Line runs for 151 miles across the waist of Korea. It was drawn at a cost of 1,820,000 casualties, including 33,629 U.S. dead and 103,284 wounded.

Today, ten years after the armistice of Panmunjom, the scars of fighting are partially hidden by underbrush, the trenches and foxholes have caved in, deer and an occasional bear wander where men fought and died for the three years of the Korean war.

Elbow & Shove. Though normally quiet, the line...

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