Rising a majestic 19,565 feet into the clouds from the hot and dry plains of Tanganyika is snow-capped Kilimanjaro the Mountain of Brightness in Swahili, a Hemingway setting to U.S. readers, the Seat of God to the Chagga tribesmen who live upon its lower slopes. Chagga legend has it that the great god Ruwa liberated mankind by smashing a vessel in which the first humans were imprisoned and scattering them over the mountainside. Actually, the 360,000 people of Chagga-land are a mixture of many tribes who for some five centuries have dwelt...
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