Europe used to spend its summers displaying castles, cathedrals, ruins and mountain vistas. Nowadays, sightseeing is being heavily supplemented by music-hearing. From metropolis to hamlet the cry echoes: "Let's start a festival!" One happy hamlet that has followed the call is Germany's Bad Bertrich (pop. 800), nestled on a hillside 45 miles from Coblenz, near the Moselle river. It is moderately well known for its waters (good for stomach, gall bladder and liver disorders) and its 18th century castle, onetime residence of Prince-Bishop Clement Wenceslaus. Only a few years ago, tourists in Bad...
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