TANGANYIKA: Hymn to Bwana Julius

After repeated assurances that his mark on the ballot would neither give his enemies a hold over him by witchcraft nor make his wives sterile, the clan leader thrust his spear shaft into the ground, strode into the mud-and-wattle hut and voted. Among the fertile coffee plantations on the lower slopes of Mount Kilimanjaro, lounge-suited leaders of the progressive Chagga tribe queued up at polling stations alongside white planters in khaki shorts and Asian shopkeepers in dhotis.

In the eastern plains, one polling place stayed open the statutory nine hours to allow the three registered voters in the area (100...

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