FOOD: Real Scoop

When Emperor Nero received a shipment of mountain snow for his royal ice cream in a state of slush, he executed the general in charge. When Baltimore Milkman Jacob Fussell first began mass-producing the ancient delicacy in 1851, he started a U.S. industry that today leads all the world. But though Americans down about 3 billion quarts of ice cream annually, the U.S. Government—unlike Nero—has never had any control over the quality of the industry's product. Last week the Food and Drug Administration finally issued a code to regulate everything from quality "French" to the "ice milk" sold at...

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