Music: Requiem

At Rome's Ciampino Airport, Italy's Vice Premier Giuseppe Saragat and nearly i ,000 people crowded around Pan American Flight 156 from New York to honor an Italian returning forever home. From the plane was borne a 990-lb., copper-lined coffin, and that night, in a railway baggage car, the remains of Arturo Toscanini were taken north to Milan.

Through the grey streets early the following morning, a crowd walked behind the hearse to La Scala where 20,000 people were waiting. For two hours, housewives, dignitaries, workingmen, schoolboys, aged musicians filed through the gleaming foyer past the coffin lying in state under La Scala's...