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Lazy as a cloud, the black-hulled, three-masted schooner Creole loafed along the coast of Spain last week. To gay music on the intercom, the 190-ft. Creole, world's biggest privately owned sailing vessel, stole past silver-sanded coves and pastel villages. On sunny afternoons, while the schooner lay at anchor, passengers dipped in the warm water or sipped in cafes ashore. After dark, white-gloved stewards moved unobtrusively among the guests in a softly lighted dining room hung with French impressionist paintings. Pushed by gentle winds, the Creole headed at week's end for...