Separated from the rest of Rome by a loop of the muddy Tiber River, the people of the tough, teeming, poverty-ridden district known as Trastevere (meaning: across the Tiber) have thought of themselves as a people apart ever since the time of the Roman Empire. In those days, the gladiators of Trastevere put on the best and bloodiest shows of all, just as today Trastevere's tough soccer players are the best in all Italy. Many another superlative can be applied to Trastevere; its poverty is the deepest, its streets and alleyways the most crowded, its feasting the lustiest in...
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