SPAIN: Neanderthal Night

Franco's Spain, like Cromwell's England, maintains a stern attitude toward the proprieties. Respectable ladies of Madrid see that their evening gowns are cut high in back as well as in front, men wear two-piece bathing suits on the beaches, and unmarried girls are never permitted out after dark without a chaperone. Spaniards have long viewed with horrid fascination and some alarm the thriving colony of fun-loving American expatriates at sunbaked Costa del Sol, southwest of Malaga.

One stormy night last November, two stern and intractable members of Franco's Guardia Civil, on routine...

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