THE tourist who decides for Moscow next year will risk his life, not in the dark cells of the Lubianka prison below Dzerzhinsky Square, but in the wildly undisciplined traffic above. Moscow's streets are full of big, fast automobiles, all driven apparently by Sturmovik pilots intent on dive-bombing pedestrians. Or, as a recent visitor put it: "Dodging in and out of lanes, with nary a signal and with wild shouts of profanity at other cars, the Russian driver seems to be recapturing the elation felt by the Cossack of old when he swooped down...

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