In France, although the snail is an item on all good menus, Jean Cadart, snail lover and onetime snail merchant, discovered a serious lack: there was no up-to-date book on edible snails. The gap has now been filled by a book by Cadart himself. Les Escargots (Paul Lechevalier; 750 francs) covers the subject with airtight completeness.
Though Author Cadart is concerned professionally with snails as food, he seems to regard them, even uncooked, with affection. His first chapter describes their slow, idyllic lives: how they emerge from the soil in spring after a few days of sunshine; how they cruise through the...
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