GREAT BRITAIN: Pass the Gravy

"Just think," marveled a full-blown young woman of 21 in London, "I was only six years old when we had our last family joint." All over the United Kingdom last week, other young people, grown to maturity in an age of snoek, whale meat and endless Brussels sprouts, were relearning the wonders of red meat, roasted to crackling brown and served in a sea of tangy juices. After 14½ steak-starved years, the government lifted the ration on meat, and Britain's red-blooded trenchermen were declared free and independent of such gustatory travesties as mock goose (potatoes flavored with sage and...

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