SPAIN: Orchard Chops

In taverns and coffee shops all over Spain's capital last week, once respectable customers were sidling up to waiters and barkeeps to whisper the cryptic words: "Any orchard chops?" Often as not, the bartender would reply 'with a knowing wink and lead the customer around to a hidden door in the back of the shop. There, while both of them kept a nervous ear cupped for the sudden cry of "Poll!" (police) from a boy on watch, the avid customer would receive his prize — a crispy, crunchy sparrow fried whole in deep olive oil. In one gleeful gulp,...

Want the full story?

Subscribe Now

Subscribe
Subscribe

Get TIME the way you want it

  • One Week Digital Pass — $4.99
  • Monthly Pay-As-You-Go DIGITAL ACCESS$2.99
  • One Year ALL ACCESSJust $30!   Best Deal!
    Print Magazine + Digital Edition + Subscriber-only Content on TIME.com

Learn more about the benefits of being a TIME subscriber

If you are already a subscriber sign up — registration is free!