In taverns and coffee shops all over Spain's capital last week, once respectable customers were sidling up to waiters and barkeeps to whisper the cryptic words: "Any orchard chops?" Often as not, the bartender would reply 'with a knowing wink and lead the customer around to a hidden door in the back of the shop. There, while both of them kept a nervous ear cupped for the sudden cry of "Poll!" (police) from a boy on watch, the avid customer would receive his prize a crispy, crunchy sparrow fried whole in deep olive oil. In one gleeful gulp,...
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